Well, I seriously doubt that what is sold as ‘oxtail’ in the markets actually came from an ox. I’m sure it comes from the same steers as all the other meats, but it sounds weird to say “steer tail” or even “beef tail.” It’s obviously one of those (pardon the expression) ‘little by little’ items, and as such one might think it’s pretty cheap. However, this is not the case as it sells for a premium price competing with other select cuts. Clearly, there is good demand for oxtail.

For beef broth, the oxtail is clearly the best by far. When cooking in large batches, I’ll use bone and sinew, but for smaller pots, the preferred meat is oxtail. It takes a full three hours to soften, with additions from conventional pots. The clove-studded onion is de rigueur. The best thing about an oxtail broth is that it requires no further handling; it is ready to serve in bowls without straining or modifying.

I treat oxtail as luxury meat. I’m familiar with oxtail stew and other similar dishes, but I would never tweak your liquor unless you had a lot of pounds on hand. I also never use it in very flavorful soups. I had the best luck with the oxtail soup with carrots, celery, parsley, and maybe a bit of barley, as it’s hearty, pleasantly chewy, and neutral in flavor. Crispy baguettes pair well with oxtail soup and can be served with cheese for contrast. Also, exotic vegetable and herb salads dressed with a simple vinaigrette go great with the soup.

Heading east to Vietnam, oxtail is a premium broth for delicious pho. I don’t think the basil and bean sprouts are compromising in the slightest, and the rice noodles work perfectly if you make sure you have a strong starting broth. Use chili sauce with beef strips on the side to avoid ruining the broth.